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LEASH
MANNERS
Dogs have
to be taught to walk nicely on a leash. They are not born knowing that
they shouldn't pull or lag behind, after all. Teaching leash manners
can be challenging, primarily because dogs are wildly excited about
going for walks, and they find it so rewarding to do their own thing.
Some dogs
are determined to get where they are going as fast as they possibly
can; other dogs want to stop, sniff, and urinate on anything and everything
in their path. If you plan to teach your dog to walk nicely on a loose
leash, it is critical that you never allow the dog to be rewarded for
pulling. If you are inconsistent, your dog will continue to pull because
sometimes it pays off. This means that even if you're in a hurry to
take the dog out, you can't relax the rules and permit the dog to pull!
You may
have seen "obedience dogs" at shows or on TV who prance alongside
their handlers, staring up with rapt attention. These dogs have been
trained in precision heeling. While this looks incredible, it is not
something a dog can do for long periods of time. Precision heeling demands
constant attention from both dog and handler and is not appropriate
for your daily walks around the block or to the park. Even these dogs
have been taught basic manners to be able to walk along on a loose leash.
There are
various methods for teaching a dog to walk without pulling. No one method
works for all dogs. There are certain rules that ought to be followed
no matter which approach you opt for:
- Until
your dog learns to walk without pulling, all walks are training sessions.
Keep training sessions frequent, short, and fun for the dog.
- Teaching
a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of rewards. Use highly
desirable treats that the dog does not have access to at other times.
Soft treats are best so the dog can eat them quickly. Most dogs love
sliced wieners, small cubes of cheese, cut-up pieces of cooked chicken,
small chunks of jerky treat and freeze-dried liver.
- You'll
be more successful if you find a way to tire the dog out before taking
him for a training walk. Dogs pull in part because they are filled
with excess energy, and unless you can expend that energy, it will
be very hard for your dog to control himself. Play fetch in the hallway
or backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive the dog to the
park so he can play with his buddies before you attempt to teach him
to walk nicely on leash.
- Walk
at a good, quick pace. If the dog is trotting or running, he has less
opportunity to catch a whiff of something enticing, and he is less
inclined to stop and eliminate every few steps. You are far more interesting
to the dog when you move quickly.
- All
dogs need to sniff and eliminate on walks. Some dogs take forever
choosing the exact best spot on which to urinate or defecate! Allow
your dog a certain amount of time, then say, "Okay hurry up,"
and give a light tug on the collar. Give him another 30 seconds and
repeat, "Okay, let's walk," in a firmer tone of voice. Pull
the dog away from the spot and resume walking. This way you are giving
your dog a warning-and if he really wants to urinate in that spot,
he knows he has 30 seconds in which to do it!
- If you
expect your dog to be controlled while walking on leash, you must
also expect him to be controlled before you go for the walk. If your
dog gets wildly excited as you prepare to go for a walk, you need
to start your training at this point. Walk to the door and pick up
the leash.
- If your
dog is racing back and forth from you to the door, barking, whining,
spinning, or jumping up, stop and ask your dog to sit. If the dog
continues to be wild, put the leash down and go sit and read the paper.
Try again a few minutes later. Continue until the dog actually does
sit.
- Praise
and reach to put the leash on the dog. If he jumps out of the sit,
drop the leash, stand up tall, and say "Sit." Wait. When
the dog sits, try again.
This is
tedious training that will make your first few attempts to go for a
walk very taxing on your patience! But eventually you will have a dog
who can sit and wait while you attach his leash to his collar and open
the door. The next step is teaching the dog to walk without pulling
on the leash!
Next
Walk in your intended direction. The moment you feel the dog pulling
on the leash, stop dead in your tracks and wait. When the dog stops
pulling (maybe he turns to see what you're doing), call him back to
you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he does, say "Yes,"
give him a treat, and resume walking.
With any
luck, your dog will look up at you because of the tasty treat. Immediately
say "Yes" and give another treat while you keep walking. If
the dog pulls again, repeat the same steps: stop dead and wait, when
the dog relaxes the pressure on the leash, call him to you, have him
sit, say "Yes" and give a treat, then resume walking.
Take every
opportunity to reward the dog for staying next to you and/or looking
up at you, while continuing to walk. If you do this consistently, the
dog learns two things: (1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he
gets treats and he gets to keep moving, and (2) if he pulls on the leash,
it's a pain in the butt because he doesn't get to keep moving AND he
has to come back to you and sit.
If you
see that your dog is pulling toward an object to sniff or eliminate,
follow the same rules but when the dog comes back and sits by you, say
"Yes" and release him to go to the object (provided you are
close enough that he doesn't need to pull). After a few days or weeks,
you will find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue
to reward your dog for good behavior or he will regress back to pulling.
Be
advised that if you apply an inordinate amount of effort when you jerk
on the dog's collar, you can inflict physical damage to the neck. A
dog's trachea is susceptible to bruising, so be extremely cautious when
using this approach.
What
sort of equipment should you use?
While you are teaching your dog not to pull on the leash, you should
use a 4- or 6-foot leash. Use a width and a material that are comfortable
for your hand. Chain leashes are awkward to use and should be avoided
unless you have a dog who easily chews through leashes. There are elasticized
leashes (made of "bungee" material) that work well to discourage
pulling in some dogs. Extendable leashes, such as the FlexiTM, or leashes
longer than 6 feet are appropriate for giving the dog exercise while
on leash but are inappropriate for teaching a dog not to pull.
GOOD
Collar Choices
- A regular
buckle collar
- A martingale
collar (also called a limited slip collar)
- A head
halter/head collar (such as the HaltiTM, Gentle LeaderTM, Snoot LoopTM)
- A no-pull
harness (such as the SensationTM or the LupiTM)
- The
head halters and no-pull harnesses may decrease pulling without additional
training.
UNSUITABLE
Collar Choices
- A regular
body harness (actually encourages pulling)
- A fabric
or metal choke/check collar (may be effective for your dog if used
under the guidance of a certified trainer)
- A pinch/prong
collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the guidance of
a certified trainer)
Source:
Adapted from material found on the ASPCA website
